Google Maps. As world market leader, we offer laminate floors in unique designs and with innovative technology. Building panel in shell construction or elements in timber construction as well as wall and roof panelling. If you have stairs in your home, you may be wondering how to match them with your beautiful laminate floors.
The depth of most stair treads the part you actually put your foot on is 11 inches. To make the process easier, we recommend gluing two planks together the night before while engaging the locking system, of course , doing enough to cover all the treads of the staircase.
Installing The Tread Edge Piece Measure the exposed edge of the tread and cut a piece of laminate to fit. Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the back of the piece, then press it into place and hold it for a few minutes to let it bond. Installing The Top Nosing Measure and cut the nosing to fit the space. Apply a bead of adhesive to the subfloor, not the nosing. Position the nosing the tapered end overlaps the flooring and hold it until the adhesive sets.
Marking for Nosing Screws Starting from the edge of the nosing, measure and mark for one screw every 9 inches. Space holes evenly and center them on the part of the nosing that is glued to the subfloor.
Drilling Pilot Holes Put a wide strip of clear plastic tape over the nosing. Screw down the nosing. Gluing Tread Pieces Together Measure the stair depth and subtract the nosing depth. If the result is wider than a single plank, rip a second plank to make up the difference. Make the cut on the groove side of the board.
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It means that our clients have the option to download and check all personal information collected about them. If the nosing has a groove, then it will sit in the tongue of the tread, so make sure you do not cut off the tongue of your tread when cutting it to width. Assuming your stairs are of uniform size, cut your treads first. Accounting for your riser thickness and nosing width, start by cutting your treads to width. You can rent one, which is a cost, or you can simply use a miter saw, which most people do have.
I use a fine-toothed blade for finishing cuts, which ensures a smooth cut without any tear-out. Cutting risers is just the same as cutting the treads — cut them to width first and then to length. Remember to cut off the tongue end of the laminate risers. You want a flat top edge for your nosing to fit either on top of or over. The bottom of your riser should be the groove — if you leave the tongue on the bottom of your riser, you risk having part of the tongue exposed.
Cut them to the same length as your treads and risers. Otherwise, use a finish hand saw and cut carefully. Install your treads and risers. Start at the top of your steps and begin with the first riser.
You are going to glue the riser in place using construction adhesive. Before you do that, however, you are going to score all of your treads and risers with a utility knife.
This will improve the adhesion between the laminate and subfloor. You are also going to nail or screw your treads and risers to your subfloor. You can do this in a couple of ways. I have a cordless finishing nailer that leaves a very small indentation in the planks.
If you choose to nail, drill pilot holes first to help you drive the nails easily. Make sure every laminate plank has a few nails or screws in it, on either side. You can cover up the nails or screws with wood filler later to match the color of your laminate. Screws will hold better than nails, but will also require more wood filler. This is the one time where you a little does not go a long way.
Put nails or screws into the riser. Now you can glue and nail or screw your tread. Apply the adhesive in the same fashion, and fit it snug up against the riser. As you move down your steps, make sure your risers are not protruding up above the tread subfloor.
Some nosing will fit into the tongue of the tread and over the top of the riser. Others fit over the tread and sit in a metal bracket that you screw into the tread subfloor. You then glue the nosing and also screw it in. Regardless of the method of installation, be aware that the nosing of your laminate stairs will endure, by far, the most abuse. Be sure to not only glue but also to screw the entire nose into the floor. Some nosing will allow you to screw from underneath, concealing the screw hole.
If your steps have a dip in the middle of the tread and you find that your nosing has some give to it in the middle of the step after installing it, you might want to put a small wood or plastic shim beneath it. Once glued and screwed, the shim should hold tight and keep your tread and nose from moving and becoming dislodged. As mentioned above, start at the top of the steps and move downward. Do the tread, riser, and nosing all at the same time.
While you will more than likely find that they are, take the extra 5 minutes to measure each separately. You may need to level the subfloor of your steps — particularly the center of your stair treads. Years of feet thumping up and down the center of your stairs will wear down the centers compared to the stair edges. Wood or plastic shims work well beneath laminate to level it.
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